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CONVERSATIONS WITH THE CHEFS
The art of sushi
Somerville’s Yan Shengwu says presentation is as important as taste
Home News Tribune Online 11/28/07
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Art lies in the eye of the beholder, and for Yan Shengwu, nothing is more beautiful than a perfectly plated dish of sushi.
Know simply as Yan, the executive sushi chef at Somerville’s Yutaka! Hibachi Steakhouse & Sushi Bar Restaurant hails from southern China’s Fujian Province, a region just across the ocean from Taiwan and Japan.
“We were heavily influenced by Japanese culture and cuisine,” Yan said.
The oldest of four, Yan said his mother was an excellent cook, but when his parents became involved with an outside business he took over kitchen responsibilities.
“Fish was a big part of our diet because we lived so close to the sea,” he said. “And though I never learned to prepare sushi then, it was my No. 1 goal.”
Eight years ago, Yan left China and ventured to the United States in pursuit of that goal.
“My first New York job was as apprentice to a sushi chef, and I worked hard mastering the basic skills,” he said. “When other kitchen staff took breaks, I continued working.”
He soon moved to the restaurant of a chef friend who had 15 years of Japanese sushi training, where he learned about sauces and plating. Two years later, he worked with fusion cuisine chef Andy Yang from Los Angeles’ famed Nobu.
“Sushi is all about fresh fish, artistic presentation and correct sauce pairings,” Yan said. “Our fish comes from Japanese specialty trading companies daily; often expressed overnight and we serve 20 different sauces.”
He explained that a sushi chef’s personal set of knives are key to working visual magic. “My knives are my life,” he said. “No one touches them and I personally sharpen them once or twice a week.”
Yan, who lives in Somerville, came to Yutaka! when it opened last April.
“One of the owners and I attended the same church, and when he was planning to open this new restaurant with a sushi bar, I seized the opportunity,” he said.
Yan now oversees two other chefs at his counter — and receives high praise for being extremely creative. Days off are spent trying different sushi restaurants, going to bookstores or surfing the Internet looking for innovative, exciting variations, he said.
Once thought of as exotic, sushi has become increasingly popular because it’s a healthy combination of taste, texture and color. Tuna and salmon are used most often, but choices include eel, yellowtail, fluke, octopus, scallops, oysters, shrimp, lobster, crab and more. And Japanese Madai, a red snapper, is popular now, as are live orange clams.
For diners who may be apprehensive about ordering raw fish, Yutaka! also serves sushi choices, cooked tempura style.
Yutaka! exudes stylized Asian ambience, with cherry-toned wood walls; colorful oriental art accents and a floor-to-ceiling stone fountain stocked with koi.
Food theater is everywhere, at its 18-foot black granite sushi bar or in two hibachi rooms. There is a quiet main dining room and private Tatami Room, where eight may dine Japanese style on floor cushions set around a rectangular table.
Sushi selections include Chirashi, a variety of fish on a bed of rice; the Banzai, with salmon and asparagus; Neptune, with shrimp and avocado, and Ocean 3, with scallops, mango and flying fish roe.
There are vegetarian selections, sushi boats, naruto, sashimi and a variety of weekly specials. Popular now are spicy crab jalapeno seaweed rolls and Yutaka’s elegant sushi bullet plate.
Yutaka! Hibachi Steakhouse & Sushi Bar is at 90 W. Main St. in Somerville. More information is available by calling (908) 218-5523 or by visiting
www.yutakanj.com.
YUTAKA SUSHI BULLET
2 cups of sushi rice
1 sheet of seaweed (sushi quality)
Slice of white fish filet
Avocado, peeled and cut into 2-inch
rectangular slices
Crab meat, freshly cooked or can, cut in pieces
Masago (fish roe)
Tempura powder
Fresh tuna, spiced and minced Cut seaweed sheet in half; place on bamboo sushi mat. Slightly wet your finger in water. Spread a thin layer of sushi rice over seaweed. Lay crab meat, masago, avocado and filet of white fish from one end to other. Slowly roll seaweed and filling using mat into tube shape. Make sure each end is tightly packed in.
Slightly wet exterior of seaweed with cold water; cover entire roll with tempura powder. Drop roll into hot pan of 360-degree vegetable oil for 10 seconds.
Cut fried sushi roll into six equal pieces. Position pieces with the filling up and put touches of minced tuna on each. Top with Korean barbecue sauce or regular teriyaki sauce (purchased from Asian grocery) and wasabi cream made by mixing wasabi paste with some canned coconut cream.
healthy combination of taste, texture and color. Tuna and salmon are used most often, but choices include eel, yellowtail, fluke, octopus, scallops, oysters, shrimp, lobster, crab and more. And Japanese Madai, a red snapper, is popular now, as are live orange clams.
For diners who may be apprehensive about ordering raw fish, Yutaka! also serves sushi choices, cooked tempura style.
Yutaka! exudes stylized Asian ambience, with cherry-toned wood walls; colorful oriental art accents and a floor-to-ceiling stone fountain stocked with koi.
Food theater is everywhere, at its 18-foot black granite sushi bar or in two hibachi rooms. There is a quiet main dining room and private Tatami Room, where eight may dine Japanese style on floor cushions set around a rectangular table.
Sushi selections include Chirashi, a variety of fish on a bed of rice; the Banzai, with salmon and asparagus; Neptune, with shrimp and avocado, and Ocean 3, with scallops, mango and flying fish roe.
There are vegetarian selections, sushi boats, naruto, sashimi and a variety of weekly specials. Popular now are spicy crab jalapeno seaweed rolls and Yutaka’s elegant sushi bullet plate.
Yutaka! Hibachi Steakhouse & Sushi Bar is at 90 W. Main St. in Somerville. More information is available by calling (908) 218-5523 or by visiting
www.yutakanj.com.
YUTAKA SUSHI BULLET
2 cups of sushi rice
1 sheet of seaweed (sushi quality)
Slice of white fish filet
Avocado, peeled and cut into 2-inch
rectangular slices
Crab meat, freshly cooked or can, cut in pieces
Masago (fish roe)
Tempura powder
Fresh tuna, spiced and minced Cut seaweed sheet in half; place on bamboo sushi mat. Slightly wet your finger in water. Spread a thin layer of sushi rice over seaweed. Lay crab meat, masago, avocado and filet of white fish from one end to other. Slowly roll seaweed and filling using mat into tube shape. Make sure each end is tightly packed in.
Slightly wet exterior of seaweed with cold water; cover entire roll with tempura powder. Drop roll into hot pan of 360-degree vegetable oil for 10 seconds.
Cut fried sushi roll into six equal pieces. Position pieces with the filling up and put touches of minced tuna on each. Top with Korean barbecue sauce or regular teriyaki sauce (purchased from Asian grocery) and wasabi cream made by mixing wasabi paste with some canned coconut cream.
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